Most people don’t get to San Salvador de Jujuy. They’re usually too busy – either on the way to Bolivia or Chile – or just avoiding it due to the ‘wisdom’ of other travellers. I lost count of the number of times I was told: “oh, there’s nothing in Jujuy. Absolutely nothing…I mean, it’s no Salta.”

Well, Salta it isn’t: the old city has been eroded – a victim of war, earthquakes and the destruction in 1812 by Belgrano and his retreating troops. Yet, for all that it lacks in colonial authority, Jujuy redeems itself with gentle Andean charm.

It’s a great place to relax and plan the next leg of your trip. Or to explore the surrounding areas: Humahuaca, Purmamarca and Tilcara. I just walked around, eating ice cream and stuffing my face, safe in the knowledge that the food in southern Bolivia wasn’t going to be quite as tasty.

A trip down to the markets around the bus station is worth it. Electronics, clothes and great, cheap street food. If you get the urge to go clubbing, there’s a HUGE place called Akrópolis that I somehow ended up in. It’s got your usual mega-mix of reggaeton, rock’n’roll and electronic stuff, but it’s packed with locals from the city and around.

My tip? Grab a big beer from the bar and start get sharing it with the people around you. Chat some terrible Spanish. Before you know it, they’ve bought another one and you’ve got yourself some new buddies for the night.

If the nightlife leaves you feeling bruised, take the bus to the thermal springs. Set in the valley amongst jagged mountains, it’s a great place to unwind, think about what’s happened on your trip and plan your next adventure. Or even better: it’s a perfect spot to simply float back with an empty mind – and think of nothing at all…