Argentina is world-renowned for its fine wine and meat, offered to visitors at bargain-basement prices unimaginable in the north of the Americas or in Europe. While the quality of traditional Argentine foodstuffs is high throughout the provinces of this vast country, there are other items which vary dramatically with geographical location. For example, European visitors spending extended periods of time in Buenos Aires tend to lament the lack of tasty chocolate on offer in the city (although it should be said that the Argentine sweet and cake alternatives are numerous, often filled with lashings of dulce de leche similar in flavour to caramel but slightly richer as an alternative to chocolate!) Furthermore, Quilmes, the ubiquitous Argentine staple where cervezas are concerned, whilst extremely cheap, leaves lovers of beer and ale decidedly underwhelmed.

For these reasons, lovers of chocolate and beer shouldn’t bypass the opportunity to sample the gastronomical delights on offer in the south of Argentina and the region of Rio Negro specifically. The city of San Carlos de Bariloche (more commonly referred to as just Bariloche) is famous for its chocolate in particular, and the main avenida is jam-packed with shops selling freshly-made chocolates, some of which can only be described as cocoa supermarkets! The chocolates come in all shapes and sizes with a mind-boggling array of flavours and fillings to choose from (the ice cream here is also not to be missed!). While the quality of the products in all the shops is generally excellent, favourite brands for many include Mamuschka (www.mamuschka.com) and Abuela Goye (www.abuelagoye.com.ar).

A common ritual for many young Argentines on the back of completing their secondary school examinations, is a trip to the south of Argentina with nothing more than a carpa (or tent), mochila (back-pack) and a group of buenos amigos! This pilgrimage to the camping sites of Patagonia is, of course, not exclusive to young people from Argentina and they are joined by a smaller crowd of overseas travellers with similar aspirations. That said, some people visiting Argentina arrive without a tent (perhaps favouring the reasonably-priced hostel accommodation), and leave wishing they’d packed their camping equipment in order to get that little bit closer to Argentina’s natural wilderness. If you have got space for your camping gear this is a great way to explore the south of Argentina in particular, which is generally more expensive than other regions in the country (in terms of accommodation, eating out and day-to-day expenses).

The lack of “quality” beaches is regularly identified by locals and tourists as one of the few absences in Argentina’s otherwise rich and diverse physical geography. While many porteños migrate to the coastal zones of Buenos Aires Province (Mar del Plata, Pinamar, Miramar etc.) during the exceptionally warm summer months of January and February, the majority concede that beaches in the coastal zones of Uruguay and Brazil are far superior. However, if you look hard enough there are a number of spectacular beaches and coves to be found inland, alongside the lakes of northern Patagonia. These don’t necessarily subscribe to the traditional beach resort model but do offer unique locations to lap up the sun and take a dip in the crystal clear waters which flow from the surrounding mountains of the Andes.

A winter wonderland without the winter

The weeks leading up to Christmas in Buenos Aires bring a set of cultural traditions which many people from the northern hemisphere will find reassuringly (or depressingly, depending on your view) familiar. On the one hand, similarities with the ways in which the Christmas festival is celebrated elsewhere should not be surprising given the particularly strong European influence in Buenos Aires (the origins of which lie in the unprecedented waves of immigration which occurred in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century), as well as the ever-increasing global comercialisation of La Navidad. However, while the decor in the temporary Christmas shops which pop up across the city speak of colder climes, with snowdrops, Christmas trees, icicles, fairy lights and the like, the weather gives the spectacle a wholly different ambience. The start of December brings much warmer and humid weather to the city, encouraging porteños to spend more time outdoors in the plazas, the gardens and terrazas of its countless bars and restaurants. Whilst in colder parts of the world the people tend to hibernate for the harsher winter months, the arrival of Christmas in Buenos Aires brings a summery spirit and positivity. Moreover, this is when the city really comes alive in a cultural sense, hosting numerous national and international music, food/drink, theatre and film festivals. There’s certainly no shortage of things to do in Argentina at this time of year, which can be especially comforting for extranjeros (or foreigners) spending Christmas away from friends and families back home. (www.couchsurfing.org is also a great resource for meeting Argentines and foreigners who are looking to spend Christmas with other people in Buenos Aires; a kind of adopted family Christmas experience!)

In front of closed doors

Buenos Aires quite rightly holds a reputation for its unrelenting and diverse night life offering countless theatres, clubs, bars and restaurants to keep porteños (people of the port) and visitors occupied. There’s certainly more than enough to do behind the doors of the city’s night-time haunts (for a good resource on keeping up to date with the daily range of events see: www.vuenosairez.com) but there are other more unofficial events taking place on the streets themselves. Indeed, a surprising aspect of life in the city particularly for northern European visitors is the sheer number of people walking the streets after dark. Perhaps most famous amongst these nocturnal activities are when the locals gather in the plazas, seemingly spontaneously, to dance tango and drink mate. Less well publicised and harder to track down are the groups of graffiti artists working their magic on the walls of buildings throughout the city.

Travelling to more remote locations in Argentina and more widely in Latin America, can provide its fair share of challenges but the experiences awaiting the determined explorer can be extremely rewarding. A significant part of that experience often lies in the journey to such secluded locales and this certainly applies to the tiny town of Iruya, tucked away amongst the Andes in the province of Salta, in the northwest of Argentina.

The only way to get to Iruya without a 4×4 is on the buses operating daily from the town of Humahuaca, some 300km away. The remoteness is partly explained by Iruya’s geographical situation, located on a plateau in the Andes, known as the Altiplano in Spanish or high plain. Iruya itself is carved into a mountainside and sits at a height of 2,780m above sea level. There are other historical reasons which determine the relative levels of connection/disconnection between towns in this part of Argentina. The northwest, such a significant leg of colonial trading links between the silver mines of Potosi in Bolivia and the Atlantic Coast, and subsequent European markets, prioritized more accessible cities such as Salta, Jujuy and Tucumán, whilst bypassing hidden pockets of human civilization like Iruya. Most of the smaller settlements situated in the northwest of Argentina consist of villages or towns with relatively undeveloped transport links, and are sheltered between the mountains or near adequate water sources for drinking and irrigation (Iruya itself is located alongside the Iruya River). Of course, Iruya and many of the neighbouring towns and villages dotted within and along the Andes, possess histories which stretch back far earlier to pre-Colombian times, providing that element of mysticism which undoubtedly draws many travelers to the region.