It was a sunny September morning in the great city of Buenos Aires. My friends and I were waking up from yet another night out on the town, Porteño Style. (NOTE- in this city people don’t go out to the bars and discotheques until two or three in the morning–afternoons are the new mornings). As we sipped our Cafe Con Leche, eager to embrace the fleeting day, we decided upon a plan of action: it was time to for La Boca. Unknowing of what was to come, we began our journey.

La Boca, or “the mouth” holds a very special place in the hearts of Porteños. In many ways, it can be seen as a symbol of Argentinean Culture. While you might be thinking that this barrio has been given such a name in honor of its inhabitants–a people characterized by rapid, loud, and incessant talking– this is not quite the case. La Boca is home to the opening or “mouth,” of the Riachuelo River, the first natural port in Buenos Aires. This water way offers a nice beak from the hustle and bustle of the city center. On a clear day you can catch local fisherman and their families taking antiquated sail boats for a ride. more…

In front of closed doors

Buenos Aires quite rightly holds a reputation for its unrelenting and diverse night life offering countless theatres, clubs, bars and restaurants to keep porteños (people of the port) and visitors occupied. There’s certainly more than enough to do behind the doors of the city’s night-time haunts (for a good resource on keeping up to date with the daily range of events see: www.vuenosairez.com) but there are other more unofficial events taking place on the streets themselves. Indeed, a surprising aspect of life in the city particularly for northern European visitors is the sheer number of people walking the streets after dark. Perhaps most famous amongst these nocturnal activities are when the locals gather in the plazas, seemingly spontaneously, to dance tango and drink mate. Less well publicised and harder to track down are the groups of graffiti artists working their magic on the walls of buildings throughout the city.

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Travelling to more remote locations in Argentina and more widely in Latin America, can provide its fair share of challenges but the experiences awaiting the determined explorer can be extremely rewarding. A significant part of that experience often lies in the journey to such secluded locales and this certainly applies to the tiny town of Iruya, tucked away amongst the Andes in the province of Salta, in the northwest of Argentina.

The only way to get to Iruya without a 4×4 is on the buses operating daily from the town of Humahuaca, some 300km away. The remoteness is partly explained by Iruya’s geographical situation, located on a plateau in the Andes, known as the Altiplano in Spanish or high plain. Iruya itself is carved into a mountainside and sits at a height of 2,780m above sea level. There are other historical reasons which determine the relative levels of connection/disconnection between towns in this part of Argentina. The northwest, such a significant leg of colonial trading links between the silver mines of Potosi in Bolivia and the Atlantic Coast, and subsequent European markets, prioritized more accessible cities such as Salta, Jujuy and Tucumán, whilst bypassing hidden pockets of human civilization like Iruya. Most of the smaller settlements situated in the northwest of Argentina consist of villages or towns with relatively undeveloped transport links, and are sheltered between the mountains or near adequate water sources for drinking and irrigation (Iruya itself is located alongside the Iruya River). Of course, Iruya and many of the neighbouring towns and villages dotted within and along the Andes, possess histories which stretch back far earlier to pre-Colombian times, providing that element of mysticism which undoubtedly draws many travelers to the region.

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Most people don’t get to San Salvador de Jujuy. They’re usually too busy - either on the way to Bolivia or Chile - or just avoiding it due to the ‘wisdom’ of other travellers. I lost count of the number of times I was told: “oh, there’s nothing in Jujuy. Absolutely nothing…I mean, it’s no Salta.”

Well, Salta it isn’t: the old city has been eroded - a victim of war, earthquakes and the destruction in 1812 by Belgrano and his retreating troops. Yet, for all that it lacks in colonial authority, Jujuy redeems itself with gentle Andean charm.

It’s a great place to relax and plan the next leg of your trip. Or to explore the surrounding areas: Humahuaca, Purmamarca and Tilcara. I just walked around, eating ice cream and stuffing my face, safe in the knowledge that the food in southern Bolivia wasn’t going to be quite as tasty. more…

Just at 165 kilometers from Salta is this little town called Cafayate. With its 11.785 inhabitants it´s situated at 1683 meter height and surrounded by vineyards. We drove from Cachi to Cafayate in about 5 hours and this was an amazing trip. You see lama´s crossing the street, loads of peppers that have been put to dry in the sun and of course the most beautiful colored mountains. The feeling you get and the views cannot be described.

Cafayate itself is a great place to stay. For foreigners it´s most famous for its bodegas and torrontes wine, which won a lot of international awards, but in Argentina Cafayate is also well known for its folklore festival every February. We stayed in a very nice hotel called Vieja Posada, which was more like a big country house, rather than a hotel. At this moment they are renovating it at the outside, but inside it was beautiful, with a big patio and excellent rooms.

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From Salta we drove through the Calchaquies Valleys to Cachi. This is a beautiful little town with only 5254 inhabitants, situated on 2.280 meter height at the foot of the Andes Mountains. The town itself is lovely, but the most spectacular thing about it, is the trip to Cachi. It is breathtaking! The mountains are so beautiful with all their different colors and shapes. You feel like Lucky Luke, all alone on the prairie. For one moment you see cacti all around you and for the next there is only rocky landscape for as far as you can see. After about a 4 hour drive you arrive in cute little Cachi.

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Looking to get away from the hustle bustle of colectivos? Grab a train and head to Tigre, a city about an hour outside of Buenos Aires. While peak season (the middle of summer) is packed, fall and spring are very welcoming. The fact that the train costs less than 3 pesos round trip makes it that much better.

Tigre is usually known as a destination for porteños to get out of the city. It has a great amusement park called Parque de la Costa, great boating (catamarans, canoes, kayaks, other river tours), camping, green space, and great restaurants. These are all the things that I encountered in a relatively short trip there one Saturday afternoon. I’m sure there are many more hidden gems to be uncovered.

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The cute little town of El Calafate is home to one of the most stunning sights in South America, the glacier Perito Moreno. It is one of the largest existing glaciers in the world. Perito Moreno is still growing today, but is losing mass at the same time.

The Glacier Perito Moreno

The short 30 minute drive from the city to the entrance of the National Park affords many breathtaking views of the lake, mountains, estancias (ranches) and other beautiful scenery. Camping is possible and would be quite exciting, but be prepared for chilly weather and come with a four wheel drive vehicle. Upon entering the National Park, and paying the hefty entrance fee for non-nationals (60 pesos), there is a nice drive through the park which leads you directly to the walking paths around the glacier. Bus tours are frequent and easy to arrange in the town of El Calafate. There is also a plethora of boat tours available which take you as close as possible to the glacier for a few extra dollars. more…

Are you like many others who think that Monday is the most boring night of the week? Well, if you are in Buenos Aires, you will be sorely mistaken. If you head up to Cultural Center Konex Monday nights will become your favorite night of the week. Your week will begin with rhythm, dance and loads of energy.

This is a tribal party where sounds come mostly from the drums and the added elements of dance music. La Bomba de Tiempo is a tropical cocktail with a mix of Indian, Moroccan, Brazilian, Argentinean and African sounds. more…

Aliens, dark memories and folklore in the Cordoban mountains

If you visit Buenos Aires during the hot summer months, the heat and pollution can sometimes be a little too much. Why not then go for a short trip to the mountains near Cordoba for some air a tad cleaner and cooler. This area hosts a number of small towns popular among Argentineans as holiday destinations, and there are a lot of different things to see and do .

The town of Capilla del Monte lies at the foot of Mount Uritorco, reaching slightly less than 2000 meters above sea level. There are hotels and swimming pools in the town, but it is the mountain that attracts many visitors, due to its supposedly extra high levels of energy and that it has been visited by extraterrestrials…Supernatural or not, alien landing site or not, the scenery of the mountain is very beautiful none the less, both to look at from a distance and as an area for hiking. And one may also find the many salespersons and shops offering various new age items such as crystals and talismans quite entertaining as well.

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