Travelling to more remote locations in Argentina and more widely in Latin America, can provide its fair share of challenges but the experiences awaiting the determined explorer can be extremely rewarding. A significant part of that experience often lies in the journey to such secluded locales and this certainly applies to the tiny town of Iruya, tucked away amongst the Andes in the province of Salta, in the northwest of Argentina.

The only way to get to Iruya without a 4×4 is on the buses operating daily from the town of Humahuaca, some 300km away. The remoteness is partly explained by Iruya’s geographical situation, located on a plateau in the Andes, known as the Altiplano in Spanish or high plain. Iruya itself is carved into a mountainside and sits at a height of 2,780m above sea level. There are other historical reasons which determine the relative levels of connection/disconnection between towns in this part of Argentina. The northwest, such a significant leg of colonial trading links between the silver mines of Potosi in Bolivia and the Atlantic Coast, and subsequent European markets, prioritized more accessible cities such as Salta, Jujuy and Tucumán, whilst bypassing hidden pockets of human civilization like Iruya. Most of the smaller settlements situated in the northwest of Argentina consist of villages or towns with relatively undeveloped transport links, and are sheltered between the mountains or near adequate water sources for drinking and irrigation (Iruya itself is located alongside the Iruya River). Of course, Iruya and many of the neighbouring towns and villages dotted within and along the Andes, possess histories which stretch back far earlier to pre-Colombian times, providing that element of mysticism which undoubtedly draws many travelers to the region.

Most people don’t get to San Salvador de Jujuy. They’re usually too busy – either on the way to Bolivia or Chile – or just avoiding it due to the ‘wisdom’ of other travellers. I lost count of the number of times I was told: “oh, there’s nothing in Jujuy. Absolutely nothing…I mean, it’s no Salta.”

Well, Salta it isn’t: the old city has been eroded – a victim of war, earthquakes and the destruction in 1812 by Belgrano and his retreating troops. Yet, for all that it lacks in colonial authority, Jujuy redeems itself with gentle Andean charm.

It’s a great place to relax and plan the next leg of your trip. Or to explore the surrounding areas: Humahuaca, Purmamarca and Tilcara. I just walked around, eating ice cream and stuffing my face, safe in the knowledge that the food in southern Bolivia wasn’t going to be quite as tasty.